GOLDEN SPARKLING VS FOREST

Idrus was thrilled to bits when his shovel hit the rocks. He shouted for joy. He was not the only one. Idrus and other hundreds people dug down the Meuh Mountains in Aceh’s west coast, looked for rocks that may contain a small fortune in gold, for more often, very little at all. Fueled by luck and desperation, this no-man’s land now teems with dreamers anxious to strike it rich, even if it means destroying their environment and themselves in the process.

A green dense forest in the Meuh Mountain became bald. More than five hectares were deforested and dug for gold.

The traditional gold miners could careless of the dangers, as landslides, that have killed people. They kept digging to 10 meters down, waiting for a stroke of luck. The shimmering of gold has possessed people.

One of these people was Abdul Rani who left his farming work in Eastern Aceh to try his luck in the Meuh Mountain as soon as he heard about the traditional gold mining. Many people have done the same and dug the Meuh Mountain since September 2008.

The local government has prohibited the traditional mining activity but the community did not obey. “How would we earn money if they closed the mining?” Abdul Rani uttered.

However, the price did not pay the effort. A 30 kg sack of rocks might only contain 2 grams, which could only be sold for less then 40 USD. To earn this money, the traditional gold miners had to go through a long and winding road. A narrow dirt track was the only way and they had to climb seven kilometers up to the hill.

The environmental destruction would even cost more. Had not Idrus and the others understood the consequences, however the needs for daily supplies left them with no choice. “We need money to provide food for family,” Idrus said. Idrus used to be a farmer but the floods destroyed his farm.

This is no-win situation. The community welfare has been always against environmental conservation. But the sparkling of gold apparently is more precious than the forest.

A Man-eating Tiger

Syarwani Sabi, 70 years old, has been famous as a traditional tiger tamer from Arongan, West Aceh district. He uses traditional methods, such as timbered trap, magic and a dog as bait. "I learned this methods from my ancestors. And I believe that the man-eating tiger would be trapped here,” Syarwani said.

In particular afternoon, the Labuhan Haji community gathered in the wood watching a man-eating tiger that has just been trapped by Syarwani’s magic. The tiger will be brought to the city and handed over to the Natural Resources Conservation Agency.

Meukek community heard about Syarwani’s triumph. After couple of months being haunted by Sumatran tigers (Panthera Tigris Sumatranensis), that killed 6 people, Meukek community sought help from Syarwani Sabi.

Sounds of chainsaw broke the silent in Drien Jalo Village, Meukek, South Aceh district. On Monday afternoon (October 15th, 2007), villagers gathered in the wood and worked together preparing a traditional trap to capture the man-eating tiger.

As the timbered trap ready, Syarwani sat on the ground and started the ritual. Mystical atmosphere suddenly created and people silenced when Syarwani burned Kemenyan (styrax benzoin dryand) and recited mantra. "After this procession, we have to pray to God, ask for his bless," Syarwani said.

"The tigers have been entering the villages and disturbing human being. This is actually human’s fault. They destroyed the tiger’s habitat. Deforestation has been really bad recently,” Syarwani added.

Syarwani succeeded in Meukek. A man-eating tiger has been trapped and brought to Natural Resources Conservation Agency in Banda Aceh.

After no actions for months, Banda Aceh Natural Resources Conservation Agency office finally will relocate the tigers to Bukit Barisan Selatan National Park in South Sumatera.

Before the relocation, veterinarians conducted examination of these tigers on June 26th, 2008. The tigers will be identified with a transponder device and tattoo, and will be released in Bukit Barisan Selatan National Park in South Sumatra.

Irwandi Yusuf, Aceh Governor, opposed this relocation and asked the tigers to be brought back to Aceh.

However, this was against community’s belief. The man-eating tiger should not be released in the former forest.

The Sumatran tiger, or Panthera tigris sumatrae, is the world's most critically endangered tiger subspecies. WWF estimates less than 400 remain in the wood in comparison to about 1,000 in the 1970s.

***

ARUH GANAL, THE DAYAK’S THANKSGIVING - The Struggle For Existence in Modernization -

A bamboo altar decorated with sets of young coconut leaves stood upright in the center of Cempaka house in Kawamakan village. Six families who live together in the wooden house held a thanksgiving ceremony. For the Dayak people, who live in Meratus mountains in South Kalimantan and devote to Kaharingan belief, celebrating Aruh Ganal is spiritually important as their gratitude to gods after the harvest.

“We never consume our crops before we make offerings to gods. It’s taboo,” said Demang Udes, the cultural and religious leader of the Cempaka house.

As evening fell, the guests arrived from the neighborhood. The rain and muddy road didn’t prevent them from coming. The men, women and youth came with their groups. The women guests helped the host to prepare the dinner for the ceremony. Meanwhile, some of the men assisted Demang Udes to prepare the offering at the altar. Outside the house, the youth swap songs and pictures from their cellular phones. It was striking and disturbing phenomenon in the peak of mountains where transmission was not available.

After dinner, the ceremony began. Demang Udes sat with crossed legs, facing the offerings at the altar and reciting the sacred mantra. His wife played a Dayak percussion. The aura became more mystical as the rhythm became serene. The men took turns walking around the altar while reciting the mantra until the dawn breaks.

Unfortunately, the youth didn’t really follow the rites. They gathered at one corner of the room, chatted or played game boy. “I’d rather stay at home watching TV but my parent made me go. I don’t understand the rites but my father said this is important,” said 16 years old girl named Manda. She chatted with her friends during the ceremony.

The cultural gap between the elder and youth became common in Indonesia since the television sat in every family’s living room, even when a narrow trail was the only way up to the mountain. The youth idolized the soap opera artists and hang their idols posters on the wall. The tradition is in threat.

The cultural leaders have been concerned with the youth who’s getting less interested in cultural and religious tradition. Modernization is one of the reasons that diminish the spirituality. Furthermore, Kaharingan follower became lesser since some Dayaks converted to Islam or Christianity. However, the converted Dayaks still came to the ceremony to respect culture and show tolerance.

A ray of sunlight on the horizon marked the time to end the Aruh Ganal ceremony. But hopefully it will not be the last ceremony. As the modernization penetrates villages on the Meratus mountains, the Dayaks continue to preserve their tradition.

***

Malnutrition

children under medical assistances due to malnutrition at Zainoel Abidin hospital in Banda Aceh, Indonesia. February 13th, 2008.

Traditional Horse Race

Traditional horse race in Takengon, Central Aceh, Indonesia